You Say Nürnberg, I say Nuremburg
Typical Nürnberger sausages served three to a bun with mustard.

So I was trying to keep an open mind and make up with Nürnberg this time around. We were not off to a good start. Our first two housing options were out (one booked up a year ago, the other under renovation) and Rob and I had chosen an older, hokier place because it claimed to have, unbelievably, a swimming pool. It did not mention anywhere on the website that the entire reception floor had 6'4" high ceilings, nor that the elevator was the size of a coffin and nearly gave some of us panic attacks. I felt badly watching Rob duck between doors. We used the stairs a lot even though we were on the fifth floor. But our apartment was huge, clean, and unbelievably, had three bedrooms and a kitchen too. It is still hard on everyone when we split up and sleep in two separate hotel rooms. I was grateful when Joss wandered in and crawled into bed with us that we'd gone for the old, hokey hotel.
We saw these Nürenburger sausages made entirely out of marzipan and Maddie lobbied hard for them. She claimed that they would make a great lunch. We said "Nein."
We decided to attend church right downtown at the Frauenkirche on the Hauptmarkt of Christmas market fame.

We attended the 11:30 mass which was packed, and we were grateful to get into the last pew on the side. It was also quite silent, and we only lasted a matter of minutes before we decided it would be better to bring out the iPad once again. It was so nice -- I actually got to pay attention! There is enough standing up, sitting down, singing, and responding that the kids were kept on their toes and Rob said the sermon was the highlight of his visit. It was all about the starvation in Africa and how to help, not just now, but by working to be a cause for good and changing the systems that cause poverty and vulnerability.
We had an hour before we took the students to lunch, and so we went to the toy museum. One wonderful thing about Nürnberg is that distances are tiny and you can get anywhere in the altstadt in a matter of minutes. The kids did not want to go to a museum, but Maddie and I had come last time around and we knew it would capture everyone's attention.
We were right. In between some incredible exhibits on wind up toys, trains, cars, erector sets, dolls and phenomenal dollhouses, they had interactive tables. Joss found the wooden trains impossible to resist. Ditto the older kids and the K'nex table upstairs. And in the attic under the eaves was the most sensational kids playroom ever. All the cool german wooden toys you ever drooled over in the windows and murals painted from wall to wall. It even had a control room where you could turn on lights in the ceiling: sparkling stars, a sun, and a blinking UFO.


What do these chapel doors seem to say to me?



Unfortunately there were no pictures allowed in the museum, so you'll have to go there yourselves or look for some illegal ones online.
Since we're on the topic, picture taking has been going through some changes in the decade since we've been doing this. In 2002 there were plenty of places where photography was simply forbidden. When we returned in 2006, we were amazed at the number of museums and castles where you were allowed to take pictures so long as they were personal and done without flash or tripod. This time around they are using a foto bereich which means they charge you an extra fee and you get a photography permit. I predict that soon the foto bereichs will be the norm and that they are going to become more and more expensive. [In fact, for future study abroads, it might be wise to get 3 or so designated student photographers and pay for their photography permits rather than worrying about paying for the whole group.]
And my favorite moment: distinguished German oma with snow-white hair comes up to her husband with a marble in her hand asks if he wants to play the magnetic soccer table with her. He says "sure!" and they sit down and have a great time.




So maybe we traumatized the students. But they're young and resilient.

We came back into town and switched out kids: let Will and Sebastian rest while we took Joss out for a walk. I have to say that I love Nürnberg's oriole windows. They have many of them, each one more beautiful than the last.


We needed to find dinner for the troops and when we saw these guys toasting turkey and bread on a skewer with a blow torch, we knew they'd go for it. Quite tasty, actually.


We brought turkey skewers and gelato back to the kids and swam around for an hour or so. Rob bought me a burnt candied almond flavor that was smashing, but he got himself a limoncello which tasted in Maddie's words "like WC Ente" (a toilet cleaner).



Joss had finished the spin cycle and was just a garden variety maniac after his nap.
Interesting venue for a celtic ensemble. This is the St. Sebald church.
Check out that groovy vibe. There's a TV! There's a bar! There's a guy changing in front of the kids! Turn around kids! (I didn't take a picture of that. Quit looking for it in the picture, you pervert.)
It is unbelievable, isn't it!? That's really all the kids need to be happy right now. Just a few hours in a swimming pool.
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